Portugal has sun-drenched beaches of the Algarve, exclusive golf resorts, medieval hilltop towns, colourful fishing villages, a cosmopolitan capital, the vine-filled valley of the Douro and wild remote mountains. But Europe's oldest country, which has had its eyes set on the sea and on its glorious past, is undergoing a profound modernization. Still, things move a bit more slowly in Portugal and some 11 million tourists seem to like the pace.